Im bringin Perfumers back

Source: Telegraph.co.uk (Original Article)

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Source: and how - Sydney Morning Herald (Original Article)

VETIVER, with its green, sensuous earthiness, was famously a
bloke’s scent. But that was a mid-century trend when Carven,
Givenchy and Guerlain pitched this rooty accord in fragrances meant
for men.

Before then, vetiver was the note that sounded the liberation of
women. Chanel was a big player of this freedom tune in No. 5 and
No. 22, as were other famous vetiver sisters who bobbed their hair
and threw away the corsets in early 20th century - classics such as
Mitsouko, Tabac Blond and Habanita.

The trend tide with vetiver is turning back to feminine shores.
It’s fitting that the most recent ripple is Chanel, with Sycomore.
It follows waves from Armani with Vetiver Babylone, Hermes with
Vetiver Tonka and a host of smaller perfume houses such as Serge
Lutens’s spicy Vetiver Oriental and The Different Company’s
translucent Sel de Vetiver.

Even Vetiver by Guerlain, with its typical green softness, is
finding its way onto the skin of 21st-century women such as Elle
Macpherson.

These have an air of promise and polish. They are fragrances for
women who’d rather play in the lingerie department than the lolly
shop; who’d rather drink pinot noir than an alcopop. They’re not
cheap and are far removed from the nose-tingling, fruit-salad
scents flooding the masstige market.

The revamped 1930 Sycomore found its way into this century as
part of Chanel’s Les Exclusifs. A little wild and very luxuriant,
its dominant vetiver got my little heart pumping.

Prompted by this elegant interpretation, I started looking at
what makes this perfume stalwart tick. You’d be surprised how
frequently vetiver pops up in fragrances. The Canadian perfumer and
blogger Ayala Sender estimates it is used in 36 per cent of
perfumes.

Sender predicts that “with the decline of the use of oakmoss,
vetiver demand will be increasing until it is going to be listed
for an [International Fragrance Association] embargo like credit card au most
valuable natural essences”. (Oakmoss is …continue reading

http://opaiamaeetu.blogs.sapo.pt/17352.html
O perfumer Fraçois Demarchy criou um perfume agradável e marcante, com notas cítricas, bergamota, flor de laranjeira, cedro e musk branco. Na Harrods, onde aconteceu o pré-lançamento da fragrância, ele foi um sucesso instantâneo. …

http://kadrovik.schweden-blog.net/2008/06/26/creed-fragrances-live-like-the-rich-and-famous/
Current Master perfumer Olivier Creed created Silver Mountain Water, inspired by the French mountains. Departing from more famous muses, Creed designed this fragrance for himself, though it is a unisex cologne. …

http://d.hatena.ne.jp/kuiuti/20080626/p1
やっぱり、アメリカは凄いは！ D ニューシングル！Then I Woke Up. D.

http://gaya-hidup.infogue.com/perfumer_mencipta_dengan_hati
Rasanya setiap orang menyukai aroma yang dihasilkan oleh parfum. Setiap parfum memang memiliki karakter berbeda. Ada yang segar, manis, seksi, hangat, tegas, atau maskulin. Yang menarik, saat mencium aroma parfum, bukan hanya indra …

http://fashionratty.com/article/5886242635cf080212a642999958040a
Perfume fragrances were classified by Charles Piesse who was a perfumer from the 19th century. Charles had actually tried to classify each type of fragrance to a musical ANZ Frequent Flyer Card a musical chord. Unsurprisingly his system failed but the …

http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=211909&goto=newpost
Forum: Fragrance Industry Discussion Posted By: EauxM Post Time: 25th June 2008 at 06:43 AM.

http://recycleyourday.com/?p=89
I wanted to go back to the days when they used perfume bottles with the big puffy squirt press and start looking into non toxic perfumes further. The idea of wearing natural perfumes brought me joy as I would think about all the lovely …

http://d.hatena.ne.jp/kuiuti/20080625/p1
f:id:kuiuti:20080625234513j:image “> ぱふゅ〜むの小学生時代より絶対可憐だね。 f:id:kuiuti:20080625234514j:image 「絶対!」「大胆!」「最大!」「大胆!」 D.

http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=211909
I found this newsletter interesting … • Perfumers • Companies • Raw Materials Table of content on the right http://www.perfumerflavorist.com/new…/20408689.html.

http://french-names2.blogspot.com/2008/06/french-names_24.html
French perfumer and scent designer Francis Kurkdjian created his first perfume at the age of 25, the immensely successful “Le Male” perfume for Jean Paul Gaultier, and hasn’t looked University Course 1235 back since. He currently commutes between Paris and . …

http://glossy-kiss.blogspot.com/2008/06/kate-moss-velvet-hour.html
Kate Moss imagined this perfume as the scent of night, very sensual, with accentuated patchouli, sandalwood and incense. In cooperation with perfumer Emilie Copperman notes of black pepper, freesia and cashmere incense were built into …

http://www.tomford.nl/blog/2008/06/22/erykah-badu-for-tom-ford-white-patchouli-perfume/
In the first shop in Milan, which will be opened on Monday, 23rd June, a perfume from The Private Blend collection, named Italian Cypress will also be presented. The perfume prepared for September is named Arabian Wood and it will be …

http://agrescitmedendo.livejournal.com/55394.html
Apparently, something didn’t quite sit well with the perfumer, master of all things aromatic, connosieur of effluvium, couturist of essence, and generally redolent all around. “I think it might be the greenery doing it. …

http://www.merwer.com/blog/2008/06/a-fresh-take-rose-perfume/
Rose is the ultimate perfume paradigm, but today, this is strangely more theory than reality. It is universally known within the industry that the smell of rose does quite poorly in focus groups and, to perfume buyers, reads “old lady.” …

http://oriflame-online.blogspot.com/2008/06/sensasi-parfum-baru-dari-oriflame.html
Para pembuat parfum atau perfumer berlomba-lomba untuk meramu berbagai macam bahan alami untuk membuat wewangian yang khas. Perusahaan kosmetika asal Swedia, ANZ Visa Debit Oriflame Cosmetics, memperkenalkan salah satu koleksi parfumnya yang diilhami …

http://richardxthripp.com/freudianslip/kate-moss-see-through-dress-10
(i ask myself) i have bought 3 bottles of perfume from tj maxx and they press all been old and stale and have told . perfumes women framer: andrew hall posted: mon jun 16, 2008 12:33 pm (gmt -4) topic replies: 64 i added a different one …

http://tangledupinlheurebleue.blogspot.com/2008/06/perfume-notes-vanilla.html
Vanilla planifolia is just like every other note in perfumery, you’ll love the way it’s handled in one scent, and dislike it in another. ( I used to say I couldn’t wear any perfumes with a cinnamon note in them–until I found I’d been …

http://www.fragrantica.com/news/Signature-Perfume-Pair—–by-Beckham-Family-316.html
Signature for Her is a fruity-floral fragrance developed and created in cooperation of the Beckhams with perfumer Sylvie Fischer of Takasago. It opens with notes of annis and glazed apple, the heart encompasses orchid, he…

http://journal.illuminatedperfume.com/2008/06/summer-solstice-perfume.html
For the botanical perfumer essences of orange from the peel and the juice are readily available. Orange flower absolute is the most prized from the spectrum of orange and lends a beautiful floral note to the heart. …

http://529570023.qzone.qq.com/blog/1214010655
Samba Sexy Woman – Perfumer’s Workshop International, Ltd. ? So Luxurious by Daisy Fuentes - BeautyBank .MEN’S POPULAR APPEAL (only five finalists in this category): ? Bijan Nude Men – Five Star Fragrance Company …

http://beetiger.livejournal.com/286295.html
On top of that, the main perfumer is pregnant, and it’s a rare woman whose sense of smell doesn’t change during pregnancy, no matter how good a perfumer she is. But I did not entirely resist the large Carnivale Diabolique update, …

http://feeds.youversion.com/~r/yv/recentcontribs/~3/316435736/24749
June 20, 2008 Ecclesiastes 10 (AMP) 1 DEAD FLIES cause the ointment of the perfumer to putrefy [and] send forth a vile odor; so does a little folly [in him who is valued for wisdom] outweigh wisdom and honor. …

http://dailydevotionbob.blogspot.com/2008/06/flies.html
1 DEAD FLIES cause the ointment of the perfumer to putrefy [and] send forth a vile odor; so does a little folly [in him who is valued for wisdom] outweigh wisdom and Frequent Flyer Credit Card honor. Do you have dead flies in your perfume? …

http://aromax-on-line.blogspot.com/2008/06/antaeus-by-chanel.html
Within the contrast of those two layers is the perfume pretty linear. There is no fresh citrus opening – you smell the competition between sweet floral and aromatic leather from the begin till dry down. They play with each other seeking …

http://www.peredepierre.com/2008/06/messe-de-minuit-etro.html
Messe de Minuit is the perfect example of knowing a perfume is beautiful, but never actually wanting to wear it. Etro has some excellent scents, and MdM is the darkest, most daring of the lot. Every perfume house has (or attempts to …

http://www.fragrantica.com/news/Prada-Infusion-d-Homme—–Another-Ace-up-the-Sleeve-of-Prada-314.html
Male companion of the last year’s edition for women Prada Infusion d’Iris, which was also inspired by this version, was created in cooperation with perfumer of the house of Givaudan - Daniela Andrier. It will be presented on Sunday, …

http://www.thefragrancefanatic.com/?p=228
During the midnight sun, the lakes and the rivers gave off a very special fresh fragrance, which the perfumer was determined to recreate. While working with Mademoiselle Chanel, Ernest Beaux presented his 5th composition of the …

http://musc2.blogspot.com/2008/06/musc_19.html
Musc Nomade was developed by perfumer Isabelle Doyen in collaboration with Camille Goutal, and is described as “a fragrance that . Perfume: Mure et Musc House: L’Artisan Parfumeur Size: 1mL Source: Swap - Coconut. …

http://tangledupinlheurebleue.blogspot.com/2008/06/chedwick-loves-trouble.html
(Revlon had a perfume called Trouble circa 1989, and it was nothing like the scents shown in the photo here. I never see the Revlon scent anymore, which is fine with me.) “Some people develop eye strain looking for trouble. …

http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=211750
Half-hour-long, French TV show provides an overview of everything related to perfume making! Perhaps the best compilation of footage inside the fragrance industry you’re likely to see online. Includes perfumer Francis Kurkdjian and …

http://cupidscharm.blogspot.com/2008/06/queens-ransom.html
This book explores the handwritten notes from the queen’s Versailles perfumer and with this information, Kurkdjian was able to recreate her beloved scent. It is described as sudoku being entirely natural and contains rose, iris, cut jasmine, …

http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=211750
Half-hour-long, French TV show provides an overview of everything related to perfume making! Perhaps the best compilation of footage inside the fragrance industry you’re likely to see online. Includes perfumer Francis Kurkdjian and …

http://cupidscharm.blogspot.com/2008/06/queens-ransom.html
This book explores the handwritten notes from the queen’s Versailles perfumer and with this information, Kurkdjian was able to recreate her beloved scent. It is described as being entirely natural and contains rose, iris, cut jasmine, …

http://www.peredepierre.com/2008/06/un-parfum-de-charmes-et-feuilles.html
TDC’s bottles remain a sight to behold - heavy brass lids and chunky glass bottles are bound to attract not just the perfume crowd, but the design-conscious crowd as well. Year: 2006 Perfumer: Celine Ellena Notes: Marjoram, Pepper Mint, …

http://ohtrueapothecary.blogspot.com/2008/06/caution-perfumer-knows-less-than-it.html
I’ll be the first to admit I know next to nothing when it comes to this gig. I’m learning something new and wonderful about this art form I’ve chosen to follow every single day. From peers, from books, from research — from life! …

http://kojvpfbgveow.blogspot.com/2008/06/essential-oils-ancient-oil-known-as.html
“The Lord said to Moses: Take sweet spices, stacte,[another name for myrrh] and onycha, and galbanum, sweet spices with pure frankincense and make an incense blended as by the perfumer, seasoned with salt, pure and holy; …

http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=211718
The fourth set of interviews from Marian Bendeth’s Scent Treks Through Time series, where we find out where perfumers would go if they could travel back in time, to meet, chat and co-create with a perfumer of the past. …

http://dieactordie.com/2008/06/18/lost-comedy-video-david-cross-as-perfumer-andre-galletois/
From the 1997 VH1 Fashion Awards. Features Jon Benjamin and Karl Lagerfeld. more about “Lost Comedy Video - David Cross as “p…”, posted with vodpod.

http://www.golpo.net/forum/f22/my-choice-my-collection-but-your-rating-11908/
Eager to learn the art of creating sophisticated fragrance, he apprentices himself to a once-renowned perfumer, and proves to be a savant whose almost mystical knowledge of scent surpasses credit card au anything that can be taught to him by masters …

http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com/blog/_archives/2008/6/18/3750758.html
Nuits Enchantées was developed by perfumer James Krivda, and is described as “the perfect sensual scent for evening”. The fragrance notes feature mocha, mace, cardamom, mandarin, ginger, rose, cedar leaf and amber…

http://the-coveted.com/blog/2008/06/18/magnifique/
The perfume world is interesting, to say the least. They have to be, articulating that which normally goes nameless, then packaging and selling it to the world. Magnifique, the new Lancôme perfume designed by master perfumer, …

http://musc2.blogspot.com/2008/06/musc_18.html
Musc Nomade was developed by perfumer Isabelle Doyen in collaboration with Camille Goutal, and is described as “a fragrance that . Novelos Therapeutics, Inc. (OTCBB: NVLT), a biopharmaceutical company focused on the development of …

http://edwardianpromenade.blogspot.com/2008/06/perfumes-of-rosine.html
The Rosine perfume, Le Fruit Defendu or Forbidden Fruit, was created by the master perfumer, Henri Almeras, who later created Joy for Jean Patou. Poiret’s other perfumers were Schaller and Bouler. Schaller created Nuit de Chine, …

http://sideshowbytheseashore.blogspot.com/2008/06/definition-of-day-french-shower.html
I often like to dab on perfume later in the day—not to mask any odors but to bask in the scents. My favorite perfumer sells her liquid fragrances in tiny bottles (above) and solid fragrances in silver compacts so you can carry them a …

http://eghersis.blogspot.com/2008/06/soapy-living.html
A perfumery has the power to be aromatic therapy, but not when it fills the confines of the mouth cavity. The soap aroma stuck to my tongue like paste and no amount of water could unstick it. I stood in the shower while my mouth opened …

http://morphoman.blogspot.com/2008/06/dolce-gabbana-one.html
Dolce & Gabbana’s The One for Men (developed by perfumer Olivier Polge) has a cool-weather vibe. It begins with a strong (and predictable) citrus / spice accord that Citibank MasterCard disappears within five minutes. I was stifling a been-there-done-that …

Source: Sydney Morning Herald (Original Article)

The Emporio Armani Red perfumes for men and women raise an
interesting question: when it comes to perfume, can you smell
ethical?

These perfumes are part of the Red campaign that channels part
of the profits from products bearing the symbol into aid for
African women and children with HIV/AIDS. The packaging is
environmentally friendly, the red graphics are by the Ghanaian
artist Owusu-Ankomah and money goes to an impeccable cause.

Other thoughts linger, far longer than the strongest scent,
however. Given that these and most perfumes contain mostly
synthetic ingredients, does that make them more, or less,
ethical?

Synthetic scent molecules have been poured into revolutionary
fragrances from Chanel, Guerlain and Christian Dior since the
perfumery business kicked into high gear in the 1920s and ’30s.

In the late-19th century, volatile solvents were used to extract
materials from ground plants for bottled scents. As Jean-Claude
Ellena writes in his recently published handbook, Perfume:
“By the end of the 1930s, the major synthetic products used today
had been discovered … Today one-third of my collection [of
materials] consists of natural products and two-thirds of synthetic
products.” This from the man who is the nose of Hermes, a company
not shy of using expensive ingredients.

Top-grade natural materials such as rose and jasmine are
expensive to harvest and harder to find. As for ingredients such as
ambergris or civet or musk, which used to be extracted painfully
and often fatally from animals, a perfume maker would no sooner use
a threatened species than hunt a Siberian tiger.

“It has become impossible to continue to use rare and endangered
species,” says Frank Breen, the managing director of Australian
distributor Cosmax, who has a raft of prestige perfume in his
portfolio, including Bulgari, Issey Miyake, Lanvin and Van Cleef
& Arpels.

“Civet, for example, nobody today would use civet; bankwest lite I don’t know
of any fragrance …continue reading